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As those strange adverts from Hong Kong tailors in the back of the newspaper are always telling us: nothing marks a British man out quite
like an atrociously ill-fitting suit. Stefan Furenbrink of extremely cool Savile Row tailor, Kilgour, instructs FHM on how to avoid looking like you’ve just borrowed your dad’s jacket to the school your dad’s jacket to go to the school disco.

Features

		ARM LENGTH “The sleeve should end at the crook of your wrist, with about half-an-inch of shirt cuff showing,” says Stefan. “Usually, one arm will hang lower that the other, so check then length on both.”

		BUTTONS “A jacket with one or two buttons gives you a long line-the eyes are drawn to the waist and not the chest. Because three buttons go higher, it gives you a broader, heavier appearance with more suit fabric. One or two buttons lengthens you.

		SPOT A GOOD SUIT “The true giveaway of a good suit is what we call a ‘floating canvas’. As it’s made by hand, the lining is independent of the shell, the lapels aren’t glued solidly. That’s why when someone sits down in a cheap suit, the whole chest starts rising up because it’s one solid piece.”

		MEASUREMENTS “The size of the suit-40, for example-refers to the measurement around your chest, in inches. Most people do a six-inch drop from the chest to the waist, so if you’re a 40-inch chest, you’ll be a 34 inch waist. You should always get measured properly before buying anything, though.”

		TROUSER LENGTH “Trousers should sit just on the hip bone. When I’m measuring someone young, they’re used to wearing loose jeans, pulled down below the hips, and they feel like a Simon Cowell when I pull them right up. There should be an inch ‘break’ (the bit below where the fabric ‘dents’ around your ankle) at the front.”

		COLOUR “If you’re just buying one suit that you want for general wear, and which will do you for work as well as going out, I’d go for navy. Black is quite a hard colour, and for a first suit, navy will go with chocolate-brown shoes, black shoes, a sky-blue shirt. Black is a bit too ‘evening’- too heavy.”

1. Never fold the trousers over a hanger-this will leave a crease across the leg. Instead, attach them, upside down, to one of those hangers with the little bulldog clips.

2. Hang the jacket on a thick wooden hanger. These support the shoulders and don’t dig into the material like
metal ones do.

3. Invest in a suit bag. Hang the suit inside it, zipped up, and place a mothball in the bottom to avoid your threats getting munched. Make sure the mothball is wrapped in tissue paper, as it will stain any fabric it comes in contact with.

4. If the pockets are sewn shut when you buy the jacket, leave them that way. Carry as little as possible in the suit, as the weight of wallets etc, as the weight of wallets, etc, bulks the suit out of shape and stretches the fabric. Empty everything out of all pockets each time you hang it up.

5. Keep dry cleaning to an absolute minimum-the chemical used in the process munches through fabric with alarming speed. Too much dry cleaning will leave your suit with a ‘shiny’ look when you really do have to clean it -say, red wine or blood- get it to a specialist cleaner the next morning.

BACK TO BASICS
How to remove stains from shirts
We’ve all shoved a chewed biro into a breast pocket, or tried to drink red wine through our wrists. Here‘s what to do after those absent-minded moments:
(1) Act swiftly. “If you get to a stain early, Vanish stick or spray will get rid of pretty much anything these days,” says Dene Myers of Eton shirtmakers.
(2) Old wives have more experience than you. They use salt for fresh red wine stains and hairspray for ink. But dry cleaners can get most stuff out, including hewing gum. “Banana is nigh-on impossible, though,” says Myers. (3) Built-up grime or collars can be treated with Vanish like any other stain.

SUITS YOU The rights whistle for every shape
	Shortarses Get your jacket cut short with the buttons low. Try to wear slim ties and avoid wide lapels.		Beanpoles Don’t show your cuff and have several buttons. Light colors won’t make you look so lanky.		Fat bastards Never unbutton your jacket, except when sitting down. Avoid double-breasted.		Weights nutters You’ll need advice from a tailor. No high-collared ‘70s shirts as they‘ll make your neck look thick